During Paris Fashion Week in January, Maison Margiela premiered its Co-Ed 2023 ready-to-wear collection, a clear indication of creative director John Galliano’s knack for narrative through design. Beyond showcasing Galliano’s ability to create alluring and broad-ranging designs, the collection marked the initiation of a partnership with Pendleton Woolen Mills, an American textile firm. This collaboration, along with the wider Co-Ed Fall 2023 collection, has now been unveiled by the Parisian label.
By joining forces with the US-based company, Maison Margiela has recast Pendleton’s iconic plaid designs within the realm of high fashion. The collection seamlessly melds a variety of styles, from the American West and the silver screen to modern punk and Southern Gothic. To this end, Galliano personally chose three mid-century weaves from Pendleton’s archives, comprising a sunset plaid in soft blue and pink hues, a red buffalo pattern, and a windowpane check in white, red, and black.
The collection sings with a gender-neutral melody, intertwining masculine and feminine sentiments in a striking manner. For instance, an oversized check shirt features vintage ruffles and frontal overlays, loose floor-grazing trousers get an unexpected update with a blend of plaid fabric at the top, and even tulle skirts are paired with reimagined blazers to add a splash of divergent characters. The collaboration and the larger Co-Ed 2023 collection embody the essence of repurposing traditional designs.
Maison Margiela’s new Pendleton collaboration and the Co-Ed Fall 2023 collection are now accessible both in physical stores and online.